All posts by ferny



Sorry, pointless update but I’m happy it’s mobile. Even if it is just to turn it round for a quick de-grease and so I can weld up the boot. Although at first I didn’t think I could get any gears. Turns out I’ve got too much clutch movement so will have to make a stop for the clutch pedal. And someone has buggered up my speedo now as well so it rests at zero so I’ve got to fix that as well. Yay…

And here’s my diagnostics light working.

still going…

Not really sure what hasn’t been updated any more! I guess I’ll post about some of the extra little jobs going on.

The steering wheel is finished. Months ago I stripped it down to re-varnish it, decided on danish oil then left off the spoke finishers. I’ve colour coded two of them but left the bottom one as original so you know it’s an old wheel and it’s got a very hard to read Mountney branding. Some people like it, I’m not sure yet.

I’ve also sorted out the heated seats which meant another order of electric bits needed to happen! More wire, more relays… Before that I tested them off the car. It got up to 30°C before dropping to around 23°C then heating back up again. Toasty. At the time I had no real heater plans so it all made sense to fit them.

They also need switches so I bought a load from China which arrived within a week. I’ve set them to glow when you turn the seats on and the seats only work with the ignition so no worries about them staying on all night.

The Mazda radiator fan was hitting on the Hyundai radiator so that needed a bit of a trim! Also, the radiator had a leaking O-ring on its drain tap I had to sort out. Only discovered moments before first fire up!

Despite being told it would never be a problem the fuel gauge didn’t match the Mazda sender. I’ve always had problems with incorrect fuel readings so after doing some proper checks on resistances etc. I found that no, the Mazda gauge requires the Mazda sender. Which was too big for the tank… bugger. Nice deep breaths of 20+ year old molten petrol saturated plastics produced…

Oh, I also have a switch operated boot light and my reverse light (erm, Jaguar driving lamp) now works when I go backwards instead of having to flip a switch for it. I’ve got some very bright LED interior lights which will be hidden behind the dashboard so you just get a glow and after some wire tracing the ciggy lighter in my boot works again rather than shorting out.

Next, heater. It’s a Mk3 Spitfire one which required some work. Not only is it very tatty but its matrix leaked. I’ve fixed that now. Quick warning, the solder Triumph use has a much lower melting point than modern stuff which makes things fun. I went out after doing the leak test and repaired it when I got back. In between I forgot that I’d reset the compressor so when I repair it I was testing it at 5bar! I think it’ll be up to the job.

Just fitted a new connector for the bonnet wires.

I’ve played around with the diagnostics light as well. Seeing as I’m not using the Mazda lights I have a warning icon on my rev counter which used to tell you when they were moving doing nothing. The diagnostics is an old system which requires you to short out a couple of terminals then count bulb flashes. Now, the thought of doing that in pitch black in the middle of the night in Switzerland whilst it’s pissing down doesn’t really fill me with joy. So I’m going to wire it into the fuse box and the old light icon so all I have to do is going out of the car, fit two fuses and then get back in and count how many times my lights aren’t going up and down in comfort. I could always fit a hidden switch under the dash to avoid the fuse idea but I don’t want random switches everywhere. Of course this involved playing with the light holder. Well, nothing is allowed to be simply and straight forward, is it!

And whilst working in the boot I found I had two small holes in its corners and the rust bubble on the wing by the rear light turned out to be more than a bubble. I really must stop jabbing things with screwdrivers! So I’m hoping to get the car out tomorrow, degrease it, drop the water out of the engine, turn it around and then reverse it into the garage and do a quick job on the rear wheel arches, boot and wing. It’ll be far easier for me if I turn it around and the petrol tank needs to come out to allow me to repair the wings and boot so as I’ve only got a couple of litres left in there it all makes sense to do it now. Shame as it’ll add more time onto the, erm, refresh? But then according to someone all I’ve done is join some wires together so… yeah.